Shibuya, Harajuku, Shinjuku, and Danish Crack

Otherwise known as the most shopping I've ever done, in my life.

We had it all planned out. We would wake up early, beat the morning rush and ride the JR Yamanote line from Shinjuku Station to Shibuya Station. From there we would head over to the Starbucks there, get coffee and something to eat, then sit in the observation area to watch the morning rush come bustling through the super busy, famous intersection. It was working too; by 5:00 AM we were both up, and went about getting ready to go. Shortly after 6:00 AM The Art Girl and I hit the streets, and our well traveled route to Shinjuku Station. Moving in and out of this station has become as familiar as getting in and out of bed; something which seemed unfathomable previously. Shinjuku station is far larger, more complex, and many times busier than Grand Central Station in New York, but it has become like our second home here in Tokyo.

Organized Chaos at its Finest

While heading into our second home, however, it dawned on us, rush has gotten going, and the trains are going to be very packed. At this point, the no-coffee, and no-breakfast was too much of a drain, and we were not meshing properly with the system that is the Japanese commuter hive. When we're properly energized, it's incredible to us how we've managed to become part of the flow. Early in our stay it was a little stressful to move with and through the large groups of people. Tens of thousands of people all at once are passing through numerous narrow passageways, and they're going in every direction you can imagine. Yet, no one bumps into anyone else. No one yells at anyone, gets upset, or gets in anyone's way. Originally this all seemed so chaotic and impossible to navigate that we would drag each other around, not key into what the other was thinking, and stress ourselves out even more. Today, however, the rhythm was there for us. We were able to move within the crowd, casually, calmly, and efficiently. It's all about being mindful of what/who is coming up in front of you, and making subtle course alterations, because they will do the same. Neither of you moves enough to clear the other, but combined the efforts result in a seamless flow, with nary a single shoulder bump.

A good day for some comfort

We both agreed, partly because nothing else was open, and because we weren't ready to learn the JR Yamanote line, just yet, to get some breakfast at the McDonald's near the entrance to Shinjuku Station. For The Art Girl an Egg McMuffin meal, and I opted for a Sausage McMuffin with egg meal. The part we wanted most was coffee, but the rest was energizing, and just what we needed to make the journey we had planned. You see, by the time we'd headed back towards McDonald's, my foot felt ready to break along the right side, and based on the way I was hobbling around, The Art Girl almost called off the day.

The train station McDonald's was unique, and tailored to the commuters. Rather than family sized tables and plenty of space, it was tightly packed with single seating stalls and mini-booths. We found a space with two adjacent low bar-style seating. The space was just barely big enough for our tray, yet many managed to have their laptops open and on their tiny counter space. There was also power available for each seat, and a small shelf to set your brief case.  We found it hard to ignore the song playing in the restaurant when "Saturday in the Park" by Chicago came on. Another one of those odd moments where you feel like you're home, but most definitely are not. All the Christmas music playing in so many places adds a strange feel to being in Japan too.



Once the man seated to my left (The Art Girl on my right) finished cleaning his nose and ears with twisted to cotton swab length pieces, he got up and left leaving the seat to me open. A number of other Salarymen came through, but none seemed too interested in sitting next to me. Several men paused near the open spot, looked around for a bit then when spotting something else ran to plop down there. Just to further spur my paranoia, when I picked up our tray to toss our trash and recyclables a man practically dove to sit in my seat. Hard to blame him, though, if given the option to sit next to me or The Art Girl, I'd chose her too. She's a lot cuter than I am.

'Ishida-san', our unexpected guide

Caffeinated, and fed, we were finally ready to tackle a new light rail line. Previous usage of the rail system was simplified because stations were numbered along uniquely lettered rail lines. The JR line, however, isn't like that. It's spotted simply by looking for "JR", then noting that it, on the map and on its trains, is green. The system map above the ticketing machines, however, didn't have any English names on it. While studying the diagram I had just about determined what I was trying to do when a man, who spoke pretty good English, asked if we needed help. We may have figured it out, but definitely not as quickly without his help. He took the time to confirm where we were on the map, asked where we were going, and as luck would have it he was riding the same train passed Shibuya (where we were going). After helping make sure we got our tickets correctly, he offered to lead us to the train we wanted, and rode with us talking along the way. He was so courteous and eager to help, and this was not the first instance of that sentiment here in Tokyo. Such an eager to help city. While I did remember to ask if I could get his picture we forgot to get his name, and I feel bad about referring to him so generically, so we will call him Ishida-san. It sounds like a nice Japanese name, and after all his generous help and patience with us, it's the least we could do.

The view overlooking Shibuya Station Intersection

The stops along the way were clear, and easier to follow than our own Metra system. In short order we arrived at Shibuya Station and bid farewell to our friend with numerous "Arigato-gozaimass"es and bows, then were into the flow of commuters once again. A few passageways around and we found a window overlooking Shibuya Station Intersection, our initial destination. From there we could also see Hachikō (the Shibuya Dog), which I'd seen in pictures numerous times before we left. It was pretty incredible to see that from so far away, then make it here to see in person. 

The Art Girl and Hachikō

Hachikō, known more formally here as chūken Hachikō (忠犬ハチ公 "faithful dog Hachikō" ['hachi' meaning 'eight', a number referring to the dog's birth order in the litter, and 'kō', meaning prince or duke]), was an Akita dog (think doge for those current with Internet trends) born on a nearby farm that the Japanese honor and remember for his incredibly loyalty even beyond his master's death. Each day Hachikō would meet his master, a professor in the agriculture department of University of Tokyo, just outside Shibuya station, at the end of the day. They continued this routine for just over a year (1924 to May 1925) when the professor suffered a cerebral hemorrhage and passed away. 

Geek also posed for a picture

The faithful Hachikō continued, each day, to arrive just as the professor's train would arrive to greet his master, and would eventually turn around and walk back to his Kobayashi home. He continued doing this for many years and became a national symbol for loyalty. For ten years Hachikō appeared at his dutiful post until March 8, 1935 when he was found on a street near Shibuya station, having passed from terminal cancer and an infection of worms. To honor him a statue was erected in his likeness, in 1934. Hachikō himself was in attendance of the unveiling. Sadly, during World War II the statue was recycled, but in 1948 it was recreated and the remembrance of his loyalty lives on.

To the right of Hachikō, still from above in the station, we also saw a subway station exit, which seemed like what we needed to find to get out. The direction most people were going, though, did't feel right for heading to the steps up, below us. So we went down and were pleasantly surprised that we were street level right where we wanted to be. Tokyo is only confusing if you try to control it. If you kick back and just go with its flow, you'll get wherever you want without even trying!

To the left an above view of Hachikō, to the right the station exit we thought we needed.

The Art Girl soaking in sun and coffee

Once down at street level it was time for a bunch of pictures. While less impressive during the day, this intersection would give Times Square a run for its money. Across from Hachikō we found the Starbucks, which is a very popular destination to relax and hang out. It had a great observation area, overlooking the famed intersection. In the morning, though, it gets very hot with the sun shining in at full force. We lasted only a few minutes at the window seating before backing off to a table away from the window. What I've found unique about drinks here is that many places only serve one size. So much for my standard "Grande Pike with room" (though all coffee appears served 'with room'), instead it was a hotto kohi, in a cup the size of what we call 'tall'. It seems that when businesses are in proximity to heavy commuter pathways, they are setup to be as streamlined as possible. Only offering one size coffee certainly accelerates the ordering process. That is, until a couple of clueless foreigners come bumbling through!

Below are some more pictures from the Shibuya Station area:

The Art Girl doing Art Girl things

Relief art near Hachikō 

Panoramic view of one of the busiest places in Tokyo, while it was not very busy

A nice shot from the South side of the intersection

The view from the Starbucks, that we later found out you were not supposed to take pictures from

It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas

Once we'd had our fill of the Shibuya area (it was still 9:00 AM and none of the stores were open yet), we set out to walk to Harajuku (one JR line stop to the North). While Ishida-san advised that the walk would be too long, The Art Girl and I felt it would be fine, plus we would have to use up a fair bit of time since most shops open between 10:00 and 11:00 AM. Along the way we saw a number of interesting sites, including something I'd read about how old buildings that look run-down and ready to fall apart will be right next to shiny new modern buildings. It's a trait the Japanese seem to share in using something for its full life, rather than needlessly replacing things as soon as they become a little old or worn. We did get a brief moment of excitement after stopping for a view off a pedestrian overpass.

While I stood there taking pictures and looking around, a few fire trucks pulled up and the firemen, working with a police official who was already there, popped out and went around the corner. They made a whole lot of noise and, unlike most of what I've seen, appeared to be disorganized and confused about where to go. After staying atop our perch for some time and seeing that the excitement had died down we headed back down and walked passed where they had gone around the corner. After crossing the street (so as to not be right next to them) we stopped and looked back to see what was going on. The policeman and several firemen were all standing in a spot near the street, each looking over a railing into the gutter like there was something concerning there. A suspicious object perhaps? Unfortunately we couldn't see what they were looking at and The Art Girl felt it was best we got moving so that they didn't decide we too were suspicious.

Ermagherd, Misfats, mah favrite bernd!

From there we continued North and eventually came across a small shop, opened earlier than most, that looked like a mix of Hot Topic, thrift, and college fashion boutique. So in we went, starting our shopping day in earnest. It was here that we really learned how into American culture the Japanese, especially the youth, really are. So many of the goods in this store were either brands, locations, or sayings from America. The best part about it, however, is the 'lost in translation' aspect. You know how people back home will get a Japanese or Chinese symbol tattooed on them and say it means some specific thing, like "Warrior"? Well I am totally convinced that they look very silly to people who are native to the origin of these tattoos. When you see clothing here with words like "Puce" or "Smell", or sayings like "It's tonight so party", and hats with misspelled names, you can tell, there's a culture and language thing at play here.

The best part about all this is the excitement they seem to hold for our interest in their Americanized merchandise. This was a common theme among many of the younger targeted stores (incidentally our favorite stores). I'm not sure, but I think we're reinforcing a culture by being so enthralled by it, that they find the sayings and expressions validated. We saw more of this at Studio Alta when we returned for some gifts after finding much of our intended gifts in the Harajuku area. It was also during this experience when I noticed how delighted everyone seems when I try to talk to them in their language. At first they seem pretty even keel and indifferent, but after I say something like "Konbanwa. Mite iru dake dess," or ask them if they speak English or tell them I don't speak Japanese, they light up, and try very hard to speak our language, even though they know little to no English. Myth busted, by the way, anyone who tells you everyone in Japan speaks great English has probably never been here. Very few people know more than a couple words of English unless they work where international communication is common (like our hotel).

On we shopped, both having a good time. Typically I don't like shopping, but it was so much fun picking out stuff to give to people from here, and the silliness of a lot of it was a source of great amusement. Plus, as The Art Girl pointed out, with a smile, "[She] gets to do all the shopping [she] has wanted to do, and [I] get to talk to all the pretty young girls, which keeps [her] out shopping longer." Back home in Chicago, you don't get the same level of cheerful, excited to talk to you that you get here. Usually it's more of a dismissive, "why are you even near me" reaction.

The Danish Crack Store

On our way back to the hotel for the evening we stopped at a place where they have actually come to recognize us (hah we're regulars somewhere in Tokyo). It is, as we've lovingly come to know it, the 'Danish Crack' store. The most amazing smell comes out of this place, and I've talked about them before, but they're getting another mention. We think about these things, crave them, need them! Perhaps one of the things we will miss most when we leave tomorrow. There were a few of these, and you know you're on the right path to wherever you're going when you smell that amazing smell.

What do you think this tastes like? ... WRONG! ;-)

After spending all day on shopping, we decided another 7-Eleven meal was in order, and happened across another of our favorites. They have these pre-made noodle bowls that include a half of a hard boiled egg, some meat, a small salad and delicious sauces for the noodles. The woman at the store first put chop sticks in our bag, then looked at us and grabbed a couple forks and asked us if we wanted. We wholeheartedly said no, that the chopsticks were fine and commented on how we haven't used a fork since we got here, but she didn't want us to be stuck without in case we changed our minds, and she put them in the bag anyway. For the record, we did not use them. It's not our first rodeo with chopsticks, and everything here is made to be eaten with them, so it's actually a lot easier than you may think. We also wanted some sweets, so The Art Girl got some Meiji Chocolate, which was awesome, and I got these little white things from the refrigerated confections case.

They were very interesting; their outer shell was a flexible, but resilient congealed rice-milk that had a texture similar to tough marshmallow, and the inside, which looked like it would be chocolate on the package, was some sort of nut-butter in the texture of creamy fluff. They were fantastic, but totally defied expectations based on look. The Art Girl also got herself the largest apple we'd ever seen, which was totally delicious. Their fruit here is all incredible. It's all big, super fresh, juicy and delicious; nothing like the dry, tasteless, mealy things you find at your local supermarket back home. We will greatly miss the food.

Our meal behind us, and the sun setting to the west, I just happened to catch a glimpse of Mount Fuji from our hotel room. We didn't even realize we could see it from here, and with the sun just behind it, the sight was moving. I took many pictures, but due to the angle and distance none of them really do the in-person experience justice. Japan never ceases to amaze, and we've only seen such a small slice of it. Tomorrow is slated for completing our shopping, and maybe some casual site-seeing, but there are so many things to see and do that we would need months just to put a decent dent in it. Our intention from the start was to arrive without a plan, and explore and experience the city as it presented itself to us. This has worked fairly well for us, and we are quite satisfied with how we have been experiencing Japan, almost from a more inside perspective because we did not bring with us the recommendations of other foreigners, advising what foreigner-centric sights to see. Much of our best experiences are when we were where the shop, restaurant, or location are clearly geared towards locals. Don't get me wrong, the tourist aimed stuff is great too, but we would never have come across some of the people and unique perspectives they seem to hold had we not ventured where we were the only people who weren't Japanese, and no one spoke English.

Sun setting behind Mt. Fuji

Everyone should visit, at least once, however you can. If you're one of my friends from my time at Mitsubishi, cast off what you thought you knew about Japan; even those who have been here on business. Come here with a blank expectation, away from the corporation and planned visits of Nagoya. Be in the moment of Tokyo, meet the great people who are some of the friendliest people on our planet. Eat the food that defies identification or explanation. You will not be disappointed. I promise.

- Geek

Note: some pictures and recounts are presented out of order for better reading